gift bag tutorial

I've shown you the paper gift bags I make before, and I promised you a tutorial, so here we go!

I use scrapbook paper for these which is 12" x 12".  I have a big pad of it that I'll never get through and there are about 3 sheets of each design in each colourway so it's perfect for ideas like this.  You can make a bag any size you like.  You can use a single sheet of paper to make a small bag, or you can join more pieces together.  For this version I used three sheets, but it did end up a little tall, I generally make them from two sheets. 

Take your sheets of paper.  I cut one in half.

Fix them together, I used double sided tape for a nice, neat finish.

Fold the top over about 1/2 " and press down.  I used that little tool at the top which is a bone folder used in papercraft, but you could use the end of a paintbrush, a lolly stick or your finger nail.

Now we are going to create the sides of the bag.  You're aiming for a square tube, or a box without base or lid!  Fold one of the sides in and crease with whichever tool you have to hand.  If you've joined your two sheets together, there'll be a join, you want to avoid this join and fold the bag in to one side of it.  My first fold is at about 8", the second a further 4" from that.  Fold the right hand side over until there is about a 1/2" overlap of the two papers.  I did take a photo of this but it was a white with black dotty blur and you couldn't see the joins.  Hold the join in place and push the top layer to the right until the first crease (the one at 8") is lying flat on the table, this is to creat a symmetrical fold for both side "corners".  Wow, does that make any sense??  Does the picture below help?

Here you can see that I've got a "gusset" in the middle (I hate that word!!) and then two smaller folds at the edges which will join together to make the second side of the bag.  The two larger portions should be equal.

Pull the two edges together and join neatly without pulling or distorting the bag.  Again, I used double sided tape.  You now need to create a crease in the sides of the bag.  Fold them inwards so the two corners on one side touch, and the same the other side.  You can only just make out my crease in the photo above so I hope you understand what I mean! 

Measure the depth of your bag (front to back), measure the same distance from the bottom of the bag and fold.  Open up your tube and fold each side inwards along the line created.

This folded portion will be the base.  You need to create the base as if you were wrapping a present.

Seal with double sided tape.

Measure the newly-created base of your bag and cut a piece of thickish card the same size.  Mine was once some form of packaging.  Apply double sided tape and carefully drop it into the bag, when it's in position, press down firmly to stick it in place.

Now we need to punch holes for the handles.  I used my fancy Big Bite which is made for setting eyelets, but you can use an ordinary hole punch.  Decide where you want your handles, then make sure they are equidistant from each end.  You'll need to punch 2 holes in each side.

I then added eyelets, but this is optional.

Take some ribbon, thin cord, yarn, twine, string, whatever and thread the end through one hole, tie a big knot so it doesn't pull through.  If it comes undone by itself you can add a blob of glue.

Pass the other end of the lenght of ribbon/cord/string etc (the length is up to you) through the hole on the SAME side and knot.  Repeat for the other side of the bag.

And tadah!  You have one custom made gift bag, I have one very tall gift bag and one very crap tutorial!  I do apologise.

Crochet hook holder tutorial

Are you ready for another tutorial?  This crochet hook case is a perfect companion to the knitting needle roll I published a tutorial for a couple of weeks ago.

I'm using the same fabrics as they are both destined as a birthday present for my mum.

First, cut out your fabric.  You need:

1 x outer fabric 12 x 7.5 inches

1 x inner fabric 12 x 7.5 inches

1 x fusible fleece 11 3/4 x 7 1/4 inches

1 x flap outer 8.5 x 2 1/4 inches

1 x flap lining 8.5 x 2 1/4 inches

1 x pocket outer 12 x 4.5 inches

1 x pocket lining 12 x 4.5 inches

a 2 inch length of ribbon/braid/string

a button

I used plain white fabric for my pocket lining to prevent too much bulk as my fabric is home decor weight.  The inside of the pocket wont be seen.  Quilting weight fabric will work fine, you could also use denim or linen, whatever you fancy.

Place your pocket pieces and your flap pieces right sides together and pin.

For the pocket, sew one long edge only, flip so the fabrics are right sides out, press, topstitch if you want to.  I didn't.  Because I forgot, not for any scientific or design reason!

For the flap stitch one long edge and one short edge, depending on whether you want the flap on the left (like mine) or the right (not like mine).  The short edge that you sew up will be facing into the middle of the roll, not the edge.  Again flip, press, topstitch (or not).

I cut my fusible fleece a quarter of an inch smaller all round than the outer piece.  This just makes it easier to fuse in place without making a mess of your ironing board, iron or pressing cloth.  As it's only an 1/8 inch smaller along each edge it will still be caught in the seam allowance in case it becomes unstuck later.  I have had that happen to me, usually when I'm doing lots of turning, turning, unpicking, resewing, turning, turning, unpicking etc.  Fuse the fleece to your outer piece.

Place your outer piece right-side-up on a flat surface, put the pocket, also right side up on top, lining up the bottom and side raw edges.  Add the flap to the top corner with the two raw edges lined up with the left edge and the top edge.

Place your outer piece on top, right side down.  Fold your ribbon/braid/string/lock of hair in half and tuck inside your sandwich.  It needs to be loop-face inwards, raw edges sticking out about half an inch.  I positioned mine just above the pocket.

Pin the whole heap together.

Sew all the way round, leaving a 4 inch turning gap along one edge.  I would recommend doing this where there is only 2 layers of fabric - so on the upper edge towards the right, next to your flap.

Clip your corners, turn the whole thing inside out, making sure your pocket is on the inside and not the outside (cue loads of confusion as I can't figure out why my pocket is facing the wrong way... then realise you just need to turn it!), press the seams and top stitch if you want.  I didn't, not because I forgot this time but because the seams were so bulky that I would have made a right mess of it.

Slip stitch or ladder stitch your opening closed.  For some reason I thought you might like to see a picture of the back at this stage. 

Now you are going to create the pockets.  You can either do this by eye, use a quilting guide, or drawer the lines to be stitched on with a removable/fading/wash off pen.  I left a big gap on the right, about 4 inches I think, for scissors and "stuff", then I marked out a line 2 inches away, then 1 3/4, then 1 1/2 etc, down to 1 inch, then I alternated the rest of the lines between 1 inch and 5/8 inch to make room for different sized hooks.

Use either a contrasting thread or one that will blend in and stitch down each line, back tacking a little at either end.  I used my walking foot for this and didn't have any puckering problems as I'd had with the needle roll.

Quilt along all your lines, then snip the threads, unless you prefer the wild look as above.

Once again, I seemed to think you'd like to see the back...

Fold your case along one of the lines to the right, press the seam to help it fold.

Then fold the left side in along one of those lines until it looks nicely layered.  Find a button that will fit through your loop (you can plan this bit in advance, but who doesn't like the "damn, I don't have a matching button that fits" moment at times like this?  Strangely enough, I did have a matching button that fitted...)

Stick a pin where your button was to mark the spot, then sew your button in place.

Here's what it'll look like from the back.

And here's how it looks all folded up.

Much better than the last one!

P.S. I cleaned the pterydactyl poo off my car.  Well no, I didn't do it, a man did.  I paid him, I didn't just force him to do it then drive off.

knitting needle roll tutorial

Last week was a barren crafting-desert.  This week will be different.  I got so much done this weekend I surprised myself.  Not only did I finish 8 WIPs, I also completed 2 projects from scratch and am working on more as we speak.  Well, clearly not as I'm typing, but I'll be going back to them soon.  I'm not going to show you all as once as I might not make anything else all week and we'll be back to me posting about bin wars and stuff. 

I'm a member of the Crafty Christmas Club blog and one of the members over there was looking for a knitting needle roll pattern.  As I was planning on making one for my mum for her birthday anyway, I offered to put together a tutorial for her as I was doing it.  I thought I'd post it over here too just in case anyone is vaguely interested!

You all know by now that I'm no sewing expert - or expert in anything actually (Oh, maybe plastics.  And the USSR and Poland during communist times.  And maybe English grammar, none of which help me sew a straight line), however I do know how to make a knitting needle roll as it was one of the first things I made and I've since thought about how I can improve that design.  I made a couple of mistakes and they will help you to make a perfect roll!

I'm using the leftover Amy Butler home-dec weight fabric I used to make knitting/crochet baskets for both me and my mum eons ago. 

You will need:

Outer fabric 23 x 21 inches

Inner fabric 23 x 21 inches

Fusible fleece 22.5 x 20.5 inches

Pocket fabric 9.5 x 23.5 inches

Pocket lining fabric (I chose a plain white as it wont be seen) 9.5 x 23.5 inches

Approx 30 inches of ribbon

Matching sewing thread

Contrasting sewing thread

As I was using offcuts from a different project, the inner fabric wasn't quite big enough.  Instead, I cut what I had (to 23 x 19 inches), then added a strip 23 x 3 inches to the bottom, ironing the seams open.  You could of course make the whole roll, or just the outer piece, from patchwork.

Fuse your fusible fleece to the back of your inner fabric panel.  I cut it 1/2 inch smaller all round so the seams wont be so bulky and so that you can line it up easier than if it were the same size as the fabric panel.  Make sure you fuse well - it does take a bit of time, but trust me, it's annoying when it doesn't stick properly and unpeels later.

Now to create the pocket.  Pin the pocket and pocket lining fabric right sides together and sew using a 1/4 inch seam allowance.  Leave a big gap for turning along the bottom as it'll get sewn shut later.  You do not need to slip stitch it shut.

Turn the right way out, poke out your corners (I use my trusty paintbrush that's never seen paint in its life) and press.  I then top stitches 2 parallel lines in my contrast thread along the top edge, roughly 1/8 inch from the top and then 1/8 inch from that line.

You can either wing the next part, use a seam guide, or draw on your lines.  I didn't think about using the seam guide (which would have been a good idea) until I'd finished so I drew on lines using my fade-away pen.  The first was 2 inches from the edge, the next 1 3/4 inches etc down to 7/8 inch.  I then alternated between 1 inch gaps and 7/8 inch gaps - remember that knitting needles come in different widths.  Now pin the pocket panel to the bottom of the inner piece - I should probably mention at this point that the 23 inches is the width.  You may also notice my pocket panel is too small, that's because I cut it too short, I adjusted the measurements for you!

Sew down these lines with your contrast thread.  I made a mistake on the first few I did.  I started at the bottom and so the fabric puckered at the top.  Make sure you sew top down each line, then any puckers at the bottom will be hidden in the seam later.

Sorry about that poor photo.  Even though I took this in the sunniest room in the house during the day and turned the light on my sewing machine off, you have to remember that I live in England and it is October!  The following photo shows you what it looks like after you've sewn your lines, you can see on the ones to the left the puckers caused by sewing bottom up.  Snip off your threads from the front of the piece, don't worry about the back.

Cut your ribbon in half, place the two pieces together and pin about half way down on the right edge.  Make sure you place your pin at least 1 inch away from the edge of the fabric or your sewing machine needle may have a nasty accident.

It's a good idea to also pin the other end of the ribbon to the centre of the pockets to make sure you don't accidentally sew it into a seam later.

Place the outer and inner panels together, right sides in and pin all around, leaving a gap for turning.  I would strongly advise you do this on the left side (away from the ribbon) and above the pocket.  I stupidly left my gap on the pocket and had a right palaver hand sewing it up later.

Sew all the way round, turn, poke out those corners and press.  Now slip stitch or ladder stitch your opening closed.  I originally left the gap on the pocket as I was planning to top stitch all the way round, but after turning I realised it would be messy as there is a lot of bulk in the bottom edge and the bottom half of the side edges.

Fill with knitting needles - these are mine, I have ordered mum a set to go in this, but they haven't arrived yet.  Probably because I only ordered them after I'd made it!

To roll it up, fold down the flap onto the needles and roll from the left, then wrap the ribbon around the roll and tie in a bow.

Ta da!  One knitting needle roll and one very washed out photo.

That's a better photo.  See that red organza in the picture behind?  I bought that to make myself a scarf.  Bet it's over a year before you see me blogging about that!

Scrappy patchwork hearts - a tutorial

First of all, please let me apologise if I'm teaching grandmas to suck eggs here.  If there are any grandmas who don't know how to suck eggs, I can help, just email me.  I made a scrappy patchwork heart at the weekend and then thought I could make a tutorial as it was pretty successful.  I know it's not rocket science, but I know I have readers who do various crafts and if any of the non-sewers out there fancied a go at some sewing, this would be a good place to start as it's really forgiving.

First you need a heart template.  I just drew one free hand and cut it out.  I folded the card in half and drew half a heart to make sure it was even.  You'll need both pieces.

Pick your colour scheme and pull out all the fabrics you have.  You can then refine them down to ones that go together.  I was trying to avoid having all fabrics from one range here, but you can work that way if you have a charm pack or layer cake.  I chose a little owl to be my centre focal point, but it's not necessary to have one. 

 

Lay your fabrics out to find a pleasing arrangement.  Put the aperture heart over the top to make sure they all fit within the window.  Once you have your arrangement, just lift the edges of the heart to make sure there is a decent seam allowance to the sides, you don't want the edge of a piece of fabric right on the edge of the template or it wont get caught when you stitch.

Take your central piece and an adjacent piece and lay one right side up on the other (so both right sides are facing).  Pin in place.

Set your sewing machine to do a straight stitch and sew along the top fabric, leaving a seam allowance of between 1/8 and 1/4 inch.  Make sure to back stitch at the start and finish of the seam to hold the stitches.

Take your fabric to the ironing board and flip the top piece back and iron it flat. 

This is what it will look  like, hopefully without the big crease next to the seam!  Oh, might be a good idea to iron your scraps first, I'm just too lazy!  Now, trim the fabric back BEHIND the seam to about 1/4 inch.

Take your next piece and lay it face down on your patchwork unit.  Pin in place.  Sew along the seam again, trim, then iron.  You will build up your heart like this - place face down where you want it to fold back, pin in place, sew, trim off the excess where it's covered by the fabric and iron.

Continue building the pieces around until you've sewn them all.  Put the aperture heart over the top to check that everything fits.  Once again, lift the sides to check you've got room for a decent seam allowance all round.  If not, add another scrap.

Next, you can add trims.  I trialled a couple.

When you've chosen a trim, you do the same as you did with the fabric pieces.

Pin.

and sew (I used a zig-zag stitch here).

Now make another unit as the back.  I chose not to have a focal point on the backs.

To try to remember where each piece was, I laid them out and then left them there, taking each piece as I needed it.

Once you have completed both pieces of patchwork, lay the heart template on the wrong side of one of the pieces and draw round it.  I used an air erasible fabric pen.

Pin your two hearts together - right sides together.

Then sew slowly and carefully around the line you've drawn, leaving a gap of about 3 inches for turning.  Make sure to back stitch at the begining and end of your stitching.

Trim abou 1/4 inch from the sewn line, clip the curves and cut off the point, being careful not to cut your stitches.

Turn and press.  Then all you need to do is fill them with lavender, pot pourri or toy filling, then stitch up the opening.  I used invisible thread to do that using a simple over stitch.

If you have any questions, please ask.  I'm not sure I've been very clear with my piecing instructions.

Feel free to do what you want with your finished hearts - keep them, give them away, sell them, feed them to the dog, but please don't copy the tutorial.

Now get out your scraps.  Here are mine!